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Classical and wave dynamics of long nonlinear coastal waves, localized near gentle shores
M. M. Votiakova, S. Yu. Dobrokhotov, D. S. Minenkov Ishlinsky Institute for Problems in Mechanics of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow
Abstract:
In recent works [S.Yu.Dobrokhotov, V.E.Nazaikinskii, A.V.Tsvetkova, Proc. Steklov Inst. Math., 2023] and [S.Yu.Dobrokhotov,
D.S.Minenkov, M.M.Votiakova, Russ. J. Math. Phys., 2024], two-dimensional coastal waves were studied and corresponding
asymptotic solutions for nonlinear shallow water system were constructed. (By coastal waves we understand nonlinear waves
that are localized near the shorelines and generalize the (linear) Stokes and Ursell waves.) In the current paper, we present asymptotic formulas for coastal waves in more practically suitable coordinates, discuss relations between parameters and typical properties of coastal waves (incl. non-breaking conditions for amplitude) and consider nontrivial examples in non-convex basins. We also discuss relations of constructed solutions to trajectories of a Hamiltonian system, which coefficients degenerate on the boundary of the considered domain and which system can be studied in the framework of fast and slow variables. Such trajectories correspond to "degenerate billiards with semi-rigid walls", that were studied in the general case in the recent work [S.Bolotin, D.Treschev, Another Billiard Problem, Russ. J. Math. Phys., 2024].
Keywords:
two-dimensional shallow water equations, coastal waves, wave equation with degeneration coefficients, localized asymptotic eigenfunctions (quasimodes), almost integrable Hamiltonian systems, degenerate billiards with semi-rigid walls
Received: May 16, 2024 Revised: June 22, 2024 Accepted: July 19, 2024
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